Dovetailed Box Class at NCSU Crafts Center

I’ll be teaching a class at the Crafts Center at NCSU on Monday nights beginning February 28 on making a small dovetailed box with hand tools. We’ll use a plow (plough) plane to make dadoes (grooves), a dovetail saw and chisels to cut dovetails, a rabbet (rebate) plane to make rabbets, and smoothing planes to finish the box. No sandpaper will be harmed in the making of these boxes.

New Windsor Chair

Here’s a new Windsor Chair that I have just completed. Whereas my previous Windsors had plank seats, this time I hand carved a saddled seat. The white oak for this chair grew on my farm and was turned green, dried, then the tenons were re-turned. The crest rail was steam bent. The seat is made from a board that was kiln dried, purchased from the Hardwood Store in Gibsonville, N.C. All of the joinery is through wedged mortise and tenon with tapered tenons used to join the legs to the seat. Wedges are Walnut

Put Away that Sander

Reading James Krenov as a beginning woodworker I was impressed by his conviction that a wood surface that has been cleanly cut by a blade reflects light in a completely different way than one that has been sanded no matter how finely. Here are two tables that I completed recently. No sandpaper was harmed in the making of these tables. The wood is some highly figured Walnut.

This is a desk for my wife, Nancy. She wanted the simplest table possible and selected these hairpin legs to complement the top that I made.

My daughter in law, Melanie, has been working from home this past year and also needed a work table. She liked what I had made for Nancy, but she picked legs in brass in stead of powder coated steel. The bottom table is a little bigger than the one above.

Woodworking Workshop at NCSU Crafts Center

On January 28, 29, and 30 I will be offering a woodworking workshop focusing on the sharpening and use of chisels and handplanes at the Crafts Center at North Carolina State University.

Sharpening is what I would call a foundational skill in wood working. Sharp tools are essential to any type of hand work, but sharpening is not an end in itself. We will sharpen the tools and then put them to work and re-sharpen as necessary. We will explore several ways to sharpen chisels and hand planes and flatten and smooth a hardwood panel which we will finish as a small cutting board.

Below is the prospectus for this class that I submitted to John when we planned this class for the Fall semester. It should give some idea of what to expect, although we will probably concentrate more on tuning and using hand planes.

Ray’s Balusters

A dozen porch balusters turned by Ray Schwartz in Western Red Cedar.

My friend and student at Alamance Community College, Ray Schwartz, has completed his project turning balusters for a home restoration. While working on this project, Ray mentioned that he had some trouble using the parting tool and roughing out gouge while making the cylinder between the square ends. He was working in Western Red Cedar which has a tendency to split under any circumstances, but which is fairly weather resistant making it a good choice for porch balusters. I made this video to give him some ideas on approaching these problems with different woods. I was using ash, a wood that presents different problems than cedar, but which is also challenging at times. Ray found that putting masking tape on the square before turning helped keep from breaking the corners off.

Techniques for using the parting tool, roughing out gouge, and skew chisel to make a cylinder between two square shoulders.

Baluster Turning for Ray

Two red oak balusters and the layout tools used to make them along with a photo of one of the originals,

One of my students has accepted a commission to make several replacement balusters for the restoration of an historic home. This video shows how to lay out a spindle turning that will be duplicated a number of times and then shows the process of turning one of the spindles.

Chicken and Egg

chicken and egg

Here’s a little push toy I made for my grand daughter’s first birthday tomorrow.  The body of the chicken is Walnut, the egg and wheels are Maple, and the axles are Persimmon.  The egg is captured in the body.  Once she is walking more than a few steps at a time I’ll tie a ribbon around the neck and it can be a pull toy.  Here’s a short video of the chicken in action.


Salad bowl and serving set workshop at NCSU

New Dates: June 8, 6:30 to 9:30 pm, June 9, 10 am to 5 pm, and June 10, 10 to 5.  I believe you can register now at the link below.

I’ll be offering a workshop at the North Carolina State University Crafts Center.  We’ll be making a salad bowl and a serving set (fork and spoon) from green maple blanks.   At present there is still an opening in this class.   To register you can click here:


Here’s a short preview of the workshop.


This is a longer video showing the turning of the first bowl from the tree that was cut for this workshop.

A James Krenov – Ron Hock Hand Plane

Krenov - Hock plane 1


Around the time that I began as a woodworker I read The Fine Art of Cabinetmaking by James Krenov.  His discussion of sensitivity to the material and to the work itself struck a chord with me.  He felt strongly that using hand tools reinforced and enhanced this sensitivity.  He also suggested that wood that has been cleanly cut with a sharp blade reflects light in a completely different (and superior) way to wood that has been sanded, no matter how finely.  Last year Ed Brown and his daughter Elisabeth spent a week in my shop with me.  Ed built a small windsor bench and Elisabeth started a three legged stool which I hope she’ll come finish one day.  Ed brought me several Krenov books as a present which I’ve been reading on cold days this winter when it has been uncomfortable in my shop.


Krenov made his own wooden hand planes.  He loved the sensation of working with them; both the sharp blade cutting the wood cleanly, and the wooden sole sliding smoothly over the work.  I’ve been using planes for 40 years, but I’ve used mostly metal planes.  You can see some of my planes in use in some of my other posts.  My favorite plane is a Record #10 rabbet (rebate) plane that I used to make most of the joints in timber framing my house.  I love it because using it taught me a lot about adjusting and sharpening planes, and because it did so much valuable work for me.  It’s a perfect size for me and is beautifully balanced; a joy to use.  In fact, I’ve sharpened it so often that I am pretty close to needing to buy a new blade for it.  Here it is adjusting a tenon recently.

Adjusting the tenon with the rabbet plane

Re-reading Krenov made me want to make a small smoothing plane in his design.  This is easily done, as he gives pretty good directions in his books, and even more detailed descriptions are provided along with excellent two-piece blades by Ron Hock (  I decided to use a 1 1/4″ wide blade – smaller than any other plane I have – to use for making very clean cuts in problem areas where I probably resort to a cabinet scraper now.  Ron Hock makes a kit that supplies all the parts for this plane cut in exotic hardwoods in case you don’t want to start from scratch.  I made my plane from an especially dense piece of walnut with some red oak for the sides.  Here are some photos of the construction of the plane according to the Krenov and Hock directions.

Kreno - Hock plane 2

Cutting the pieces out on the table saw is pretty straightforward.  The recess in the bed of the plane for the cap iron screw head was made by locking this piece securely in a drill press vise at the correct angle and drilling a line of overlapping 3/4″ diameter holes 1/4″ deep with a forstner bit.  The center marks left by the bit and the outside circles made by its teeth are clearly visible.  The small webs left between the holes were cleaned up with a chisel.  The pin which locks the wedge is 1/2″ square: the 3/8″ round tenons on either end were turned on the lathe: I gently rounded just the corners of the pin.  It’s already been finished as it doesn’t get glued: it rotates to line up with the wedge.  The holes at the ends of all the pieces are for 1/4″ alignment dowels which will be cut off when the plane is finished.  Here is the dry fit.

Kreno - Hock plane dry fit

Since everything looks good – here it is with glue.

Krenov - Hock plane glue up

Yes, I used a few more clamps.  This was a cold day and you may notice that I’m doing this inside my house.  Some of the alignment dowels can be seen sticking out of the ends.  These were made of cut off pieces of the walnut used for the body of the plane.  I cut 1/4″ square pieces on the table saw, cut them into short pieces a little longer than the drilled holes on the band saw, and drove them through a Veritas dowel plate.  When the glue was dry (24 hours) the clamps were removed.  I cut the outside profile on the band saw.  The sole was smoothed and flattened using Lie Nielsen #4 1/2 smoothing plane.  This also achieved the correct mouth opening.  By the way, that’s dried beeswax not rust on the cap iron, blade, and sides of the Lie Nielsen plane.  I got a little carried away applying it some time ago as I’ve had a problem with moisture in my shop: it dried in streaks.  The shavings can be clearly seen as a mix of walnut and oak.Krenov - Hock plane truing 2


Finally the sides were thinned somewhat and were squared to the sole by running the body over the jointer.  The sharp edges on the sides and back of the sole were chamfered with a block plane and the top edges were rounded using a spokeshave.  A little Tried and True oil and wax finish and you have the picture that began this post.  To the upper right you can see the wooden hammer I made to tune my wooden planes.  The wood being planed in that picture is a piece of hard maple.  You can see light through the shavings: a little patience and you can adjust it to make lace.

In the video below I have just sharpened and adjusted the plane, and have selected a cut off scrap of walnut to see what kind of surface I can create.  At the start of the video you can see the saw marks and even some burns on the freshly cut surface of this piece of wood.  The first couple of cuts show clearly that I am planing against the grain so I turn it around and start over.  Right away the surface begins to clear.  James Krenov would, I think, suggest you pay attention to the sound the plane makes when it is working with the wood, not against it: quite a difference. Since these are light cuts, it requires several passes to remove all the saw marks and the rough grain torn up by the initial cuts.  Close inspection reveals a very nice surface, but a few saw marks on the left edge of the board.  Moving under the light reveals some other flaws that need a little more attention.  After finishing with the plane I briefly admired the fine shavings.  (One of my pet peeves is the excessive attention paid to shavings and not to the finished surface: the shavings will be swept up when all is done.  Japanese woodworkers even have a competition where they try to create the thinnest continuous shaving from the edge of a board with a finely tuned plane.  They measure the shaving with machinists calipers and don’t even look at the surface that has been planed.)  Finally, I applied a little paste wax which I then buffed to show what the piece might look like with finish.




Come to the NC State Crafts Center this Saturday for our annual Crafts Fair.

I’ve been making tops since I’ve been turning wood.  As a kid I played with them at my Grandmother’s house so they have wonderful associations for me.  I make mine shaped like acorns.  One of my early woodturning teachers was Jake Brubaker.  He was a Menonite minister and made acorn shaped handles on his spice boxes.  He told us that he did this because in the Menonite church the acorn was used as a symbol of hope and renewal.

I’ve been making these this week to get ready for the crafts fair at the NCSU Crafts Center on Saturday from 10 to 5.  They’re $5 each and I should have plenty.  Here’s a little longer video of me making one.